A week stalking deer on a Highland estate is a must for sporting tourists. Immortalised in the BBC TV series Monarch of the Glen, Ardverikie in Inverness-shire is probably the most famous
With an estimated global TV audience of 50 million viewers, Ardverikie is arguably the most famous deer forest in the world. Certainly, ‘undisclosed’ location fees from seven series of Monarch of the Glen not only provided a welcome boost to the estate’s turnover but also introduced a way of life – that of ‘Glenbogle’– to a global public.
I remember when there was first discussion in landowner circles as to whether a light- hearted, whimsical TV series based extremely loosely on Compton Mackenzie’s novel would portray Scotland’s estates in a beneficial light.
Given that land reform was on the horizon but not yet on the books, there were furrowed brows and worried faces. It was even suggested that someone should do something to stop it.
While maybe not a true representation of the average Scottish stalking estate (whoever heard of a stalker called Golly?) the ‘film’, as it is affectionately referred to on the estate, did a huge amount of good in terms of tourism and the local economy – and Ardverikie continues to ride the wave with its holiday accommodation, including its turreted gate lodge, booked out months ahead.
Ardverikie extends to almost 40,000 acres, mostly to the south of Loch Laggan but with some ground (Aberarder) to the north. There are three Munros – Geal Charn, Beinn a’ Chlachair and Creag Pitridh – and the vast Aonach Beag just across the march on Ben Alder.
And yes, some parts of the Ardverikie story could have been lifted straight from the script.
The house, now a magnificent, imposing turreted baronial mansion on the lochside, burned down twice in the 1870s – once while still under construction.
Sir John Ramsden (who acquired Ardverikie from its former owner Cluny Macpherson) was an enthusiastic improver of both the estate’s trees and its deer. He bought the adjoining estates of Ben Alder, Moy, Inverpattack, Strathmashie, Glenshero and Aberarder and set about planting millions of trees, from the lowest level on the estate at 800ft to the highest plantings in Britain at 2,000ft.
Among these were native Scots pine, but also ‘new’ trees from North-West America such as western hemlock, Douglas fir, Lawson cypress and red cedar.
Ardverikie is renowned for its deer, with a cull of around 150 stags and 200 hinds, and a further 25 stags and 50 hinds are culled on Aberarder.
There are three beats on Ardverikie – east, mid and west – and a strong vein of tradition runs through the estate’s stalking approach. Some stags are let during September and October.
Highland ponies (or garrons) are used to bring the stags off the hill. There are two stalkers – father and son duo Dougie Langlands senior and junior – supplemented by two students from Thurso College and a ghillie for the stags during peak season.
The estate is run by a private family company, so all the directors are related. Patrick Gordon Duff Pennington, who was chairman of the Deer Commission for Scotland from 1993 to 1998, married into the family in 1955 and recalls: “I shot my first stag under the guidance of John Duncan, later head stalker at Ardverikie. He remained my friend for the next 42 years – as well as supplying me with cast-off clothes! “We learnt that man cannot command the elements. Finlay Mackintosh, another head stalker, was the only man I knew who could ignore this principle. He looked like a stag, smelt like a stag, and drifted among the deer like a ghost.
“Then there was George Lamont, a ghillie from Skye who came with his collie to Ardverikie each year. On shooting a stag we would make fire to summon George and it was a pound to a penny he would be looking elsewhere while we waited – and waited.” Rhoderick Noble of the company CKD Galbraith, resident factor at Ardverikie and also Highland region chairman of the Scottish Rural Property and Business Association, says: “The estate has to survive on the income it can generate, so Monarch was extremely good for us. Forestry is making a comeback and we were into hydropower very early. The ‘new’ hydro scheme was put in about 20 years ago and generates 1MW which we use in the house, and sell to the National Grid and to neighbouring Corrour. And we have a good range of holiday accommodation to let which Hector, Archie, Lexie and others have put on the map.”
Accommodation at Ardverikie includes Inverpattack Lodge for up to 12 including annexe, Gallovie Farmhouse for up to 12 and also cottage accommodation. The estate offers red deer stalking and trout fishing. Lodge and stalking for two rifles (15 stags) starts from £7,250 a week. Lettings are Sunday to Sunday.
www.sportinglets.co.uk